Rust: roots and creativity
Many would have thought that Renato Cunha was crazy when he decided to open a reference restaurant in the village of Portela, near Vila Nova de Famalicão. Fourteen years later, Ferrugem presents itself with great enthusiasm as one of the best national restaurants.
Although Renato Cunha currently has a strong technical preparation for culinary arts (he is a professor at the University of Portugal), his cuisine is a mixture of creativity, impeccable product selection and Portuguese cultural traditions. “A clean kitchen, clearly from popular roots, uncomplicated, but very serious”, as you described.
The large room, the former stable of a farm house converted by the architects João Faria and Andrêa Pinto, is comfortable and elegant in all its rusticity.
The menu is very reserved, but the big success comes with the tasting menus, three at the moment: Rust with six moments, Recortes de Portugal with five and Minho with four.
There is no list in these menus and customers indulge in the chef who, after a short chat, understands their preferences. The seasonality and authenticity of the products is always present.
Each of the menus can be accompanied by a wine pairing, one for each moment. The Minho menu is completely accompanied by wines from the Vinho Verde region, of which Ferrugem has carefully and very greedy selections.
The bet on regional products is taken so seriously that Renato Cunha will raise chickens in the vast space available to the farm. Only 150 a year, yellow of course, native to Minho.
Rua das Pedrinhas 32, Portela (Vila Nova de Famalicão)
12 p.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 8 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. closes on Sunday for dinner and on Monday
Average price: 60 euros
Adega do Sossego: Minho at your feet
The Minho River flows nearby and its waters are home to some of the most sought-after Minho delicacies in Adega do Sossego. Namely: lamprey between January and May and shade in spring.
It is remarkable how the cyclostome is treated, which can be estimated in various preparations, some of which are rare and precious. This is the case with dried lampreys in the smokehouse, which after soaking over coals can be roasted, breaded with eggs or boiled, filled with ham and sausage. It is also available fresh, in preparations better known as Bordeaux, or with rice.
In spring, the river also offers shade, which is accompanied by a very special delicacy after deep-frying in this area, the threshing cry. The list of Adega do Sossego is not long, and in addition to the starters (the smoked pork head is a must) there are the cod and fried cabbage rice (made to order), as well as those grilled on the grill.
The wine cellar is remarkable, and António Castro, the owner, also produces Alvarinho, quiet and sparkling, as well as red wine.
The references, however, extend for more than two dozen between Alvarinhos de Monção and Melgaço and some Albariños from neighboring Galicia.
In total, the letter contains more than fifty references from across the country, including a dozen sparkling wines from the demarcated region of Vinhos Verdes, one of the most complete sets in a restaurant of its kind.
Adega do Sossego
Avenida do Peso, 1179, Peso (Melgaço)
From 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Wednesday and Sunday for dinner.
Average price: 35 euros
São Gião: The improbable happens
To find a reference restaurant almost in the football stadium of a small village is not uncommon, but certainly a rarity. How is the work of Chef Pedro Nunes.
The room in São Gião is beautiful, spacious and comfortable. The solemnity of the forest and the fireplace in the middle of the room suggest that this is a very serious case of greeting. The large windows are torn open over the forest and the vineyards and give the room the charm of its own luminosity.
São Gião has brought his own earnings to a very high level as Pedro Nunes has not given in to the relief in the more than 30 years that he has led the door. Its assets are the impeccable quality of the products, the maintenance of a very Portuguese matrix (with the massive use of the wood-burning stove and oven) and creativity without compromising on comfort.
diogo baptista (archive, 2015)
The menu is extensive with a wide variety of starters followed by seafood and fish, depending on what you find on the place. The fish soup is a must. Always the same high quality in meat, with weekends being the selected moments for so-called comfort dishes such as veal or children’s roast or very special trays with a very delicate texture and taste.
For desserts, we recommend a delicious Abade de Priscos pudding, another tribute to the geographic area in which it is located.
The wine cellar features some of the region’s famous peaks.
Avenida Comendador Joaquim de Almeida Freitas, 56, Moreira de Cónegos (Guimarães)
From 12:30 pm to 11:00 pm. Closed Sunday for dinner and Monday.
Average price: 55 euros
Venice: a treasure cellar
Veneza restaurant is not in a trendy location in the Algarve, nor does it have a long and great menu. It makes delicious barrocal cuisine, which is complemented with very fresh seafood and the typical sweets of southern Portugal – it is therefore not a fish restaurant.
What Venice can’t beat is the extensive and valuable wine cellar, one of the best in the country, with hundreds of references, nationally and beyond.
It all began 73 years ago with a small tavern in the back of the current owner’s father. 1954 grew the size and the range of the tavern. In addition to wine, he also sold coffee, groceries, and building materials, says Manuel Janeiro.
Still very young, Manuel convinced his father to convert the sales into a show and dance hall. It was 1970. The work was done and Venice was born, where the decoration next to the name recalled the city of gondolas. Renowned artists and bands performed there on Saturdays and there was a lot of dancing. In 1983 they danced and opened the restaurant with Manuel in the living room and Maria José, his wife, in the kitchen.
The wine cellar with a collection of more than 30,000 bottles is sought after by producers who have exhausted certain collections in their collections and find them there.
Even if you are outside of the usual tourist rounds, it is convenient to reserve a table during normal times. All the more so to be able to try the mountain soup itself, a monument to regional cuisine.
Mem Moniz, Paderne (Albufeira)
From 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Wednesdays for lunch and Tuesdays.
Average price: 30 euros
Via Graça / 9B: The pleasure of seeing and eating twice
It is difficult to define whether Via Graça is first and foremost one of the best restaurants in Lisbon or one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the capital.
Those who knew the previous facilities will notice a huge difference. Via Graça was divided: In the “basement”, the room previously used in groups, the “old” Via Graça works with the classic menu, while Via Graça is on the ground floor 9B, a gourmet restaurant that focuses more on a restaurant Innovative and luxurious cuisine with two tasting menus, 9 + b, with nine moments and 9 + 9, with 18 suggestions. “The first is influenced by the Lisbon region, which only sells fish and seafood, while the second includes seafood as well as some meat suggestions,” says the chef in charge, Guilherme Spalk. The young chef previously worked with André Magalhães, who rated him “one of the most talented of the new generation”.
In addition to the excellent cuisine, Via Graça is characterized by an exceptional wine cellar with fantastic references, not to mention the uniqueness. From the Vinho Verde region to the fish dishes, all the main producers are present.
João Bandeira, the owner, describes his wine list as “a journey to the table in an exchange of experiences between the Old and New World” where you can taste, discover and appreciate the classic references to manufacturers of “Garage”. .
Via Graça / 9B from Via Graça
Rua Damasceno Monteiro, 9-B (Graça), Lisbon
Tel .: 218870830/218870305
From 12:30 p.m. to midnight. Do not close
Average price: 55/105 euros (Via Graça / 9B)
This article was published in # 1 of Singular Magazine. Download available here.